1997 Pommard, Les Rugiens, 1er Cru, Francois Gaunoux, Burgundy

The most powerful red wines of the Côte de Beaune emanate from Pommard, where complex soils with a high proportion of iron-rich clay produce deep-coloured, relatively tannic wines. Two vineyards stand out: the lower part of Les Rugiens, which has been mooted for promotion to Grand Cru status, and the five-hectare, walled Clos des Epéneaux, monopoly of Comte Armand.

Domaine François Gounou is a renowned family-owned estate in the Côte d'Or, based in Meursault. The estate still owns and manages approximately 10 hectares of vineyards, which are personally overseen by the family. The Gounou family has lived in the Côte d'Or since the 16th century, and François Gounou has been involved in grape growing since he was 15 years old. François is also the son of the famous Henri Gounou from Pommard. Known as an avant-garde winemaker, he was adept at blending modernism with tradition, a philosophy that he continues to uphold today. The estate is now managed by François' daughter, Claudine Gounou, who creates approachable yet complex wines of the highest quality.

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey ""sous-bois"" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.